The Zattere: A Waterfront Promenade
© Wai Heng Chow - FOTOLIA
The Zattere was
constructed in 1519 as a landing stage for timber, but is now a
waterfront promenade lined by a series of notable buildings and
monuments.
The Zattere runs along virtually the entire southern shore of the
Dorsoduro district of Venice. It offers superb views of the spectacular
Palladian architecture on the island of Giudecca immediately to its
south.
The westernmost point of the Zattere, known as the San Basilio, is named
after a church, long since demolished, which was once located there.
The yellow-fronted Scuola dei Luganagheri, a few doors along, was
formerly a sausage maker’s guild, but is now a restaurant, the only
remaining evidence of its previous use being the two marble tablets on
either side of a statue of Saint Anthony.
© Wai Heng Chow - FOTOLIA
A series of impressive
palaces, now used as government buildings, line the Zattere beyond the
Scuola dei Luganagheri. These include the 15th century Gothic Palazzo
Molin, now the headquarters of the Adriatic Coastal Authority, and the
16th century Palazzo Priuli Bon, formerly the French Embassy, and
currently home to the Venice port authority.
Continuing past these palaces, the Zattere bridges the Rio di San
Trovaso before passing the 15th century church of Santa Maria della
Visitazione, designed by Mauro Codussi, whose ceiling portrays 58 saints
by an unknown artist. Unfortunately the rest of its treasures were
plundered by Napoleon in 1797.
The Artigianelli, a former artisans college, adjoins the church.
Anonymous complaints against corrupt officials were formerly deposited
through the yawning mouth of the stone lion which adorns its exterior.
The next church along is the splendid baroque Gesuati, also known as the
Santa Maria del Rosario, which was constructed in the 1740’s by Giorgio
Massari. The ceiling fescos, which depict scenes from the history of the
Dominican Order, represent some of Giambattista Tiepolo’s finest work.
Ceiling fresco by Tiepolo from the church of Santa Maria del Rosario on the Zattere waterfront.
After bridging two more
canals, the Zattere passes the Ospedale degli Incurabili, formerly a
hospice for men in the final stages of syphilis. It later became the
Venice Youth Court and is now the administrative headquarters of the
Accademia.
Continuing eastwards along the Zattere, the next church is the Spirito
Santo, notorious for the scandalous antics of some of its former nuns.
The Spirito Santo is locked most of the time, but its remarkable trompe
d'oeil ceiling frescos, which cleverly use perspective to imitate
decorative masonry, may be viewed by arrangement.
Continuing across the Rio della Fornace, the Zattere passes the Emporio
dei Sali, formerly used for the storage of salt, and redeveloped in the
mid-19th century by Giovanni Pigazzi. It now houses the city’s most
prestigious rowing club, the Bucintoro.
Finally the Zattere arrives at its most easterly point, the Dogana di
Mare (customs house), which is notable for its exquisite bronze
weathervane depicting the Goddess Fortuna holding a gilded sail to the
wind.
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