Madonna dell’Orto

 Tintoretto’s Parish Church

 

The church of Madonna dell'Orto

The Madonna dell’Orto is located in the northern Cannaregio district, far from the crowds of tourists who congregate in the vicinity of Saint Mark's Square and the Grand Canal. This area of Venice is less congested; the canals are broad, the squares are spacious, and life tends to be more peaceful and less urgent.

Being well of the beaten path, the Madonna dell’Orto is missed by most tourists notwithstanding that it was Tintoretto's parish church and so naturally contains some notable works of art.

The first church on the site was constructed in the 14^th century, and was dedicated to Saint Christopher, the patron saint of travellers, a religious figure with whom the local boatmen could identify.

However, in the early 15th century a statue of the Madonna, for which supernatural powers were claimed, was found in a nearby vegetable garden. The original church was then demolished and replaced by the present red-brick Gothic structure.

The portal at the principal entrance is decorated with statues of Saint Christopher and the Apostles. The interior is bright and airy and houses a remarkably beautiful picture of Saint John the Baptist and Other Saints completed by Cima da Conegliano in 1492.

The blank space opposite this canvass was formerly occupied by a Madonna and Child (1478) by Giovanni Bellini. This picture was stolen for the third time in 1993 and has not yet been recovered.

The Madonna and Child (1478) by Bellini, stolen from the Madonna dell'Orto for the third time in 1993.

During the 1560's, Tintoretto, who worshipped in this church, decorated the chancel with a huge frenzied Last Judgement which depicts the tortured souls of the dammed hysterically pleading for God's mercy.

This depiction of the agony of  lost souls, clambering in the pit of hell, is rather harrowing. Indeed when John Ruskin, the Victorian artist, took his family to the Madonna dell'Orto, his wife is said to have become hysterical at the sight of so much fire and brinstone.

Detail from Tintoretto's Last Judgement in the chancel of the Madonna dell'Orto

Tintoretto’s “Adoration of the Golden Calf” also hangs on the chancel wall. Tintoretto includes a self-portrait in this painting; he is one of the figures carrying the calf.

Tintoretto's tomb is also located in the chancel.

After the floods of 1966, the Madonna dell'Orto was extensively restored using funds raised in the U.K. More recently the “Venice in Peril” foundation has carried out further restoration including the preservation of the statue of the Madonna by the 15th century sculptor, Giovanni de Santi, which is located in the San Mauro chapel.

The  church is a short walk from the Madonna dell’Orto vaporetto stop.

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